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November Trees Autumn
is nature's planting season and the best time to plant trees because
they are dormant now and so less likely to be stressed during planting.
The soil will also still be warm from the summer and the autumn
rain will help them establish very quickly. If you have already prepared a tree for moving by pruning the roots as described last month, do not attempt to move it until the leaves have fallen, or in the case of evergreen trees until the plant is dormant. As a guide look at neighbouring deciduous trees and wait until their leaves have fallen. Carefully dig up the tree, retaining as much of the soil around the root ball as possible as this will limit the damage to the roots and the reduce the overall stress to the tree. You should have already prepared the planting hole, ready to take the transplanted tree. If possible place the whole root ball onto a tarpaulin and then move it near to the prepared hole. Loosen the soil at the base of the hole, where you have previously added Rose, Tree & Shrub Compost and Bone Meal. Position the tree into the hole, making sure that it has the best side facing the front where it will be view from. Fill in around the roots with soil mixed with Rose, Tree & Shrub Compost and firm in carefully. Water thoroughly. Check on the tree after about a week. You may find that the compost/soil mixture has settled and sunk a little around the base of the tree. If so, fill in the sunken area with more Rose, Tree & Shrub Compost and firm gently. Mulch around your plant with an appropriate mulch such as Mini Chipped Bark. After heavy winter rain, mulch around the base of your trees. This will improve the overall appearance of the garden and reduces moisture loss through evaporation at the soil surface. It will also insulate the tree roots. Don't add fertiliser or plant food at this time of year as it could promote early growth that would be affected by frost and freezing winds. For large areas use a quality mulch such as Pine Bark or Chipped Bark that will look more natural under a tree and is better suited to large open spaces. If the tree is in a small border in the lawn or part of a smaller ornamental bed choose a finer mulch such as Mini Chipped Bark or Cocoa Shell. Clear up any leaves and debris from around the base of your trees as these may harbour a variety of pests and diseases. Weed around young trees by hand removing any weeds and grass that are within 60cm (2 ft) of the main trunk. Weeds and grass will compete with your trees for precious water and nutrients and can also provide protected sites for overwintering pests and diseases. After severe weather check your trees for wind damage and be prepared to prune out broken stems and branches. Roses and Shrubs Lightly dig over any bare soil around roses and shrubs to expose overwintering pests for the birds to eat. Clear up any fallen leaves and debris from beneath rose plants to reduce the chance of black spot and other rose problems from lurking nearby. Don't add them to the compost heap or you will help to spread the problem to other roses in the garden. Plant bare root roses; dig plenty of Rose, Tree & Shrub Compost into the soil in the planting holes to give them the best possible start. Container grown roses can be planted now. Take a look around the garden and locate areas that are bare of winter interest and colour. There are many shrubs that perform during the depths of winter that can be planted now. For plenty of ideas visit your local garden centre where you will find displays of seasonal plants that are looking great now. Make sure you pick up some Rose, Tree & Shrub Compost too to help them establish more quickly and give an excellent display year after year. Good plants to choose include Viburnum tinus 'Eve Price', a lovely evergreen shrub with attractive pale pink flowers that change to pure white. Mahonia 'Charity' has wonderful scented yellow flowers and rich green foliage or consider the dogwoods, grown for their wonderful winter stems and available in a choice of colours for striking winter interest. Encourage pest predators such as birds, bats, beetles, hedgehogs, frogs and toads into the garden to tackle garden pests. Top up the bird food and water. Plant berried shrubs such as Pyracantha that will provide an autumn and winter food source. Make small woodpiles in shady areas for beetles and other wildlife to shelter in and consider installing a pond. Prune back and tidy up roses and shrubs that have outgrown their space. Remove any dead, diseased or damaged growth and reduce long stems by about a third to prevent wind rock damage. After pruning, mulch over the roots. Fruit and Vegetables Autumn is a great time to clear the vegetable beds. Remove all the spent crops and dig over the area. Dig in Farmyard Manure or Soil Conditioner to improve the soil. On heavy clay soil, leave the clods of clay on the soil surface for the frost to break up. Keep the vegetable and fruit beds weed free. Weeds not only compete for any available food and water, but they also provide shelter for a number of garden pests and diseases. Dig out any perennial weeds making sure to remove all the roots. Protect winter salad crops with a cloche or horticultural fleece in the event of an early frost. Finish harvesting tree fruit. Keep an eye on stored root crops such as potatoes and onions and look out for rots and problems. Use any bulbs or tubers showing signs of damage. Remove any that are diseased and dispose of them. Check Brussels sprout plants for signs of pests and disease and remove any affected leaves. Start to harvest plump sprouts from the base of the plant stems as they mature, moving up the stem. Plant garlic cloves. Plant bare root grape vines, rhubarb, raspberry canes, blackcurrants during November. When the first frosts have touched your parsnip crop they will ready to harvest. Cold weather increases the sugar content of this root crop and creates a much sweeter taste. Prune out a third of the oldest stems of currant bushes right down to ground level. Remove any diseased, dead or damaged stems and cut back stems that have already fruited. Prune gooseberry bushes by trimming back the main stems by about one third and cutting back side shoots above a healthy bud. Lawns If
the grass is growing then keep it trimmed by removing just the tips
of the growth. Set the mower to it's highest setting and don't be
tempted to cut the grass short, it will stress the grass and allow
competing weeds and moss a chance to become established. Use the natural break in grass growth to have the lawnmower serviced. Do not feed the grass over the winter. Fertiliser will speed the grass into premature growth that will not withstand the weather conditions and could actually kill the lawn. Instead wait until spring when feeding will give your lawn the best possible start for the season ahead. Root out large weeds from the lawn and keep the garden weeds under control so that they cannot seed and spread into the lawn. Sweep up any fallen leaves and keep the lawn free from any debris. Keep off newly sown or turfed areas of lawn. If a heavy frost lifts new turfs then use a heavy roller during a dry spell to level them out again. If you are planning to sow a new lawn dig over the area during the winter and leave the soil in clumps on the surface for the frost to break it up. Use the winter months as a time to plan and prepare for the season ahead. If your garden needs a new lawn then plan it out over the winter so that you are ready for action when spring arrives. Aerate compacted areas and apply Lawn Dressing to fill in any holes, cracks and hollows. Repair damaged or worn areas of the lawn. Large areas can be top dressed with Lawn Dressing and then over sown with an appropriate lawn seed. Fast Acting Lawn Seed is ideal for quick establishment or choose a lawn seed that is specially formulated to suit your garden conditions and the way you use your lawn. Beds and Borders Keep on top of weeds; dig out perennial weeds removing the whole root. Plant tulip bulbs in the borders during November. It's the best month to plant these spring flowering bulbs as the cooler temperatures stops them from breaking into growth early and also reduces the chance of the shoots being affected by frost. It also helps to reduce the incidence of tulip fire, a disease that affects these plants. Lightly dig over any bare areas of ground taking care not to damage any plant roots that may be present. If the soil is poor then add some Soil Conditioner and work this into the soil. Keep a watch out for slugs and snails that may be active in sunny spells. Use your preferred method of control. Tidy up and cut back perennial plants as they die back for winter. Pots and Containers Move any pots that can be moved to the shelter of a house wall or even into a cold greenhouse. This will provide some protection against the worst of the winter weather. Mulch over the roots of containerised plants with Mini Chipped Bark or Cocoa Shell to protect the root ball from extreme cold. Wrap the sides of the pots with bubble wrap to add further protection to the pot and your plants. Ensure that all your pots and containers are well drained. If you are planting new containers use a generous layer of crocks (broken terracotta flower pots) or horticultural grit at the base of the container. Stand you pot on pot feet or bricks to raise it above the ground. Top dress potted shrubs and trees with fresh Multi-Purpose Compost with added John Innes. Water thoroughly. Buy a variety of spring flowering bulbs and plant these into the base of winter containers so that the flowers will emerge through the foliage in spring. Choose dwarf narcissi, dwarf irises, crocus and other small and dainty bulbs for a natural effect. For stunning displays plant single varieties of tulips en masse into pots and planters. Keep them gently watered and in a sheltered position until the bulbs emerge in spring. Pots of bulbs can also be forced in the greenhouse to create earlier displays and also flowers for cutting over the winter months. Containers of plants that have finished flowering should be tipped out and dismantled. Check the compost thoroughly for the grubs of vine weevil and feed them to the birds. Seeds and Cuttings Check on any overwintering cuttings and seedlings regularly. Make sure they are not too wet and are adequately protected with horticultural fleece, newspaper or sacking during severe weather. Sow early broad beans in trenches in the vegetable patch. Fill the base of the trench with Multi-Purpose Compost with added John Innes and sow directly into this, covering over with more compost and finally covering with a shallow layer of soil. Water well and cover over with cloches or horticultural fleece. Use the winter break to plan for the year ahead and to order your seeds for next season. Ericaceous Plants Plant new ericaceous plants into acid soil or containers filled with Ericaceous compost. Check plants after severe weather to prune out damaged stems and branches. House Plants Keep a check on houseplants in warm rooms as they can dry out very quickly. Allow them to dry out a little between watering but take care that they do not dry out for long periods. Avoid over watering and make sure plants are not left standing in water. Foliage plants should be checked regularly and the compost allowed to dry out between watering. It is very easy to over-water houseplants and much better to err on the side of caution. Move plants off the windowsill at night to stop them from being chilled when the temperature drops further. Make sure you place them back in a light and airy place in the morning so that they can make the best use of the winter light. Dust foliage plants to remove excess dirt, or wash gently with tepid water. Do not use water on cacti and succulent plants, or plants that have hairy leaves. Check houseplants for signs of pests that can thrive on warm indoor temperatures and control using your preferred method. Feeding Most plants are not actively growing at this time of year and should not be fed. The exceptions are flowering houseplants that are encouraged to be at their best for the festive season. These plants may be fed every 10-14 days with Feed-all Ready To Use Plant Food. The general rule in winter is not to feed your plants. An out of season feed will encourage plants to put on early tender growth that is simply not strong enough to resist the winter weather. Soil Matters November is a good month to work on the health of your soil. If you keep the soil in good heart it will support plant growth right through the season and your garden will be healthier all round. If your garden soil is poor or depleted from overactive plant growth then improve it using one of the specially formulated soil improvers from Westland. For example Top Soil or Premium Garden Soil are both carefully selected soils with a high content of organic matter, vital for healthy soil. Premium Garden soil has added fertiliser so it is ideal for planting specimen garden plants such as Topiary sculptures. Both formulations are great for new beds and borders, rockeries and for replacing existing soil. Farmyard Manure is ideal for conditioning the soil and adds vital nutrients and water holding organic matter to garden areas where heavy feeders deplete soil nutrients quickly such as the vegetable plot or rose beds. Organic gardeners can opt for Organic Garden Compost or Soil Conditioner to improve the soil and add vital structure and organic matter to support healthy plant growth. Keep adding these soil improvers to the surface of the existing soil, either by lightly working it into the soil surface, or by applying as a mulch. Either way the worms and other soil organisms will work the organic matter into the soil to create a healthy structure. Dig over the area of soil that needs improving. If the area is planted then take care not to dig close to the plants or disturb their roots. You can use the Soil Conditioner or Farmyard Manure as a mulch near to established plants and allow the worms and soil organisms to work it into the soil. Spread Soil Conditioner or Farmyard Manure over the surface of the dug area and work it into the soil with a fork. Soil Conditioner contains a high proportion of organic material mixed together with a generous proportion of farmyard manure. These natural materials will absorb and hold water in the soil and improve its structure, providing essential air pockets for drainage and for the roots to breathe. The high organic content also encourages the activity of beneficial soil dwelling organisms including worms. Mulching November is a great time to apply a garden mulch, especially after heavy rainfall. Dig out any perennial weeds and then apply your chosen mulch over the area to a depth of 3-4 inches. To make the mulch last longer consider applying it over a permeable membrane or planting fabric, this reduces contact between the soil and the mulch and slows down the degradation of the mulch. Use an ornamental mulch on the surface of your pots and containers. It not only looks good, but it also insulates the plant roots from frost and cold. More importantly it helps to retain moisture in the compost. Make sure the compost is wet through before applying the mulch. Use a small piece bark such as Mini Chipped Bark for the best-looking results over a small area. Water Gardening Cover over the pond with a net to prevent falling leaves from reaching the water, otherwise these will rot and pollute the water. Remove dead leaves from water lilies and pond plants so that they do not contaminate the water. If you are considering installing a pond start to plan the position and dig out a suitable area while the soil is moist and manageable. Remove the pond pump from the pond and clean it thoroughly. If necessary you can replace the pump with a pond heater for the winter months to protect your fish from extreme cold. An air hole in the ice is essential to keep fish and ponds healthy in cold weather. A pond heater will usually keep an area of the surface free from ice; otherwise float a tennis ball on the water.
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